Guan Zhi-Lin 官芝霖大腸包小腸
Taichung · Wenhua Rd 12-7, Xitun Dist., Taichung

A Taiwanese night-market sandwich with no bread at all – a grilled glutinous-rice sausage is split lengthwise to act as the bun, and a smaller, sweet Taiwanese pork sausage is tucked inside. It is finished with thick soy sauce paste, raw garlic, pickled mustard greens, pickled cucumber, cilantro, Thai basil and crushed peanut, so every bite is chewy, snappy, sharp and crunchy at once.

Photo: Venturists
Small sausage in large sausage – in Chinese Dàcháng Bāo Xiǎocháng, literally 'large intestine wraps small intestine' – is described as a snack sausage sandwich invented in Taiwan in the late 20th century, in National Chung Hsing University's Taiwan Night Market Snacks (2013), cited by Wikipedia. A Taichung food guide from 2004 appears in that work's reference list, and the style is described as popularised in the 1990s.
Its origin is contested, and no single birthplace is settled. One account traces it to a Hakka working snack from Hualien, in eastern Taiwan. Another credits its formalisation at Fengjia Night Market in Taichung, where the Guan Zhi-Lin stall has operated since the late 1990s – a guide to the market notes that whether the snack was truly invented there or merely perfected there is still debated, and the stall still draws a queue every night.
What is not debated is the form. A segment of Taiwanese pork sausage is wrapped in a slightly bigger, fatter sticky-rice sausage and usually served chargrilled, and deluxe versions in night markets across Taiwan add condiments such as pickled mustard greens, pickled cucumber, garlic, hot peppers, wasabi and thick soy sauce paste. The same name and the same core build are used by unrelated stalls in Taichung, Kaohsiung and Taipei today.
Recipe in progress — we’re still checking the details.
We’re still checking the ingredients and method against published recipes. Details may change.
We haven’t kitchen-tested or finished checking this recipe yet.
Local favorites
Every restaurant below is in this style's home turf – the place it comes from – and its own menu or website confirms it serves the style today. This isn't a 'near you' list: origin is the reason each place was chosen.
Taichung · Wenhua Rd 12-7, Xitun Dist., Taichung
Taipei · In front of No. 60, Jihe Rd, Shilin Dist., Taipei
Kaohsiung · No. 73, Liuhe 2nd Rd, Xinxing Dist., Kaohsiung